A wild, remote and adventure-ready land of ancient forest: the Pilliga

Located 6hrs drive north-west of Sydney, a 25min drive north of Coonabarabran and 20mins south of Narrabri, this gigantic forest is well off the tarmac, but more than worth the effort to get there. The best way to enter the park is via the town of Baradine, where you can access the main fire trail which runs through the spine of the whole forest. It’s best to venture this wilderness in a 4WD or a 2WD with some ground clearance as the terrain can vary throughout the park. Sand is also common and major flooding can occur, leaving roads and creek crossings uncrossable. For your own safety, check the park alerts before you head off. We also recommend ‘knowing your weather’ – here are some handy tips by the BOM (Bureau of Meteorology) to keep in mind.

Located in the town of Baradine, the Pilliga Forest Discovery Centre is well worth your time if you’re planning on venturing into the forest. The interactive displays at the centre give you a sense of awe for the size of the forest. Learn about the native animals, plants and the forest’s different stages in history, from major bushfires to mining. The knowledgeable staff offer advice on the best routes and sights to see, as well as insights into the cultural and environmental history. Stopping here will give you the first taste of this dramatically unique landscape and inspire you to go and see it for yourself.

Tucked away under beautiful native trees, lie spacious campsites in the Sculptures in the Scrub campground, with their own fire pits. There’s no grass, so you’ll have to set up your tent in the dirt, or bring a tarp to put beneath it. Within 100m of the nearest campsite you’ll find campground facilities, including toilets and BBQs. The phone service is very limited out here and only brief sections of the Sculptures in the Scrub track have reception. Download the NSW National Parks app to your phone for offline maps and park info that you can access anytime.

It’s important to have extra water and food as this area is very remote. Planning a campfire to roast your marshmallows? Be aware that fires are only permitted in the designated fire pits. Check the park alerts to make sure there are no total fire bans in place.

This area, known as the Dandry Gorge, speaks to you on a different level. It’s silent, it’s special, it’s vast, completely remote and deeply rich in Aboriginal history. The geology is dominated by Pilliga sandstone and large rocky sandstone outcrops. The sculptures found along the Sculptures in the Scrub track, Timmallallie National Park in the Dandry Gorge, were made by five artists who collaborated with Aboriginal elders and young people of the region to depict stories of contemporary Aboriginal culture and the connection to the landscape of the Pilliga. Walk the track at your own pace, and you might be lucky enough to have it all to yourself.

One of the most incredible sculptures is the axe heads that represents a white man’s metal axehead.

If you’re staying at Sculptures in the Scrub campground, the Salt Caves and the Pilliga lookout tower are an easy 30min drive through the forest. Located in Timallallie National Park, in the northern section of the Pilliga Forest, this area is positioned in what seems to be the middle of the Pilliga Forest. From here, the park goes almost 70km in every direction, and once up the fire tower, viewers can experience a massive sense of scale and perspective. To the north, Mount Kaputar is visible on the horizon and to the south, the Warrumbungles paint a beautiful skyline of jagged mountains. The nearby, Salt Caves picnic area is perfect for a bite to eat. The area has great BBQ facilities, toilets, and plenty of red dirt to add to that bush feeling.

The Salt Caves are about 50m from the carpark. The caves are incredible, you can walk roughly 20m inside of them. From the outside, you wouldn’t sense there is a deep cave system just through the entrance. It’s a historic Aboriginal site, used as a traditional shelter by the Gamilaroi people. Walk through and spot traces of light beaming through the cracks in the rock.

Such a special place and one to see for yourself. Pilliga sandstone is the foundational layer for the entire Pilliga Forest. The rock formation (sandstone outcrop) was formed by vast layers of sediment laid down in a series of lakes many million years ago (in the Jurassic age). Over thousands of years, the rock has slowly weathered and as a result, beautiful shapes, colours and holes have appeared in the rock. The caves overhang metres over your head and you will spot Aboriginal rock art and carvings in the rock, along certain parts of the track. This place just screams serenity. Walk it slowly self-guided, be in awe of every unique pattern and colour. As a matter of respect for the Gamilaroi people and this special place, please avoid the temptation to touch the rock art and carvings in the rock.

Warrumbungle National Park and Mount Kaputar National Park are well worth the visit if you’re in the Coonabarabran/Narrabri region. Both offering a playground for the adventurous, with great hiking, climbing, stargazing and camping options.